June Roadtrip, Day 12, Here Comes the Sun

 Day 12

Saturday, June 12

       I woke up about an hour before sunrise, got dressed and walked out into the central courtyard.  It was raining steadily.  So, I simply turned around and went back to bed.  

      On the drive out of Norfolk, I crossed a small bridge.  On a dry day I would have gone back.  In the foreground, a whole bunch of smaller, colorful private boats.  In the background a massive gray warship from the navy yard.

      A few more miles and I was on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel. Never gets old...

    For those of you who haven't driven this, the entire journey covers seventeen and a half miles shore to shore and dips down into tunnels twice.  When the bridge originally opened in 1964, this would be one lane of traffic each way.  It's now two parallel bridges, two lanes each way.  However, you do have to merge to one lane for the tunnels.  

    A plan is in place to change that, and it's planned cost is only $755 million.  As you read this, a tunnel boring machine is digging the new tunnel forty-two feet wide and at speed of 2-3 inches per hour.  The machine takes twenty people to operate, running two ten hour shifts, followed by four hours of maintenance.  The construction has been named the Parallel Thimble Shoal Tunnel Project.  You can watch a pretty cool animation of the project here.

     Just across the bridge is the Eastern Shore of Virginia Welcome Center.  The staff seemed pretty excited about the bridge project.  I told them I was headed to Kiptopeke State Park.  They gave me some recommendations for trails, assuming the rain let up.  I've been caught in the rain on trails before.  It's just not something I'd choose to do.  

     

       What caught my attention about this park are the ships.  

     During WWII, steel was as a premium.  So, McClosky and Company started making freighters out of concrete.  During the landings on D-Day, some of them were purposefully sunk off the Normandy coast to make breakwaters.  But, as soon as the war was over, the concrete ships quickly became obsolete.

     In 1948, the Virginia Ferry Company was looking for create a ferry service between Cape Charles and Hampton Roads and needed a breakwater to protect their terminal.  Instead of building from scratch, they asked the Navy if they could have nine of the concrete ships.  They Navy said sure, take them.  But, the ferry company would have to pick them up.

     So they did.  Some were towed from as far aw Beaumont, Texas, while others came from across the bay in Norfolk.  They were partially sunk in an arc and have been the breakwater ever since.  

    The trail the folks at the visitor center raved the most about is along the far coast.  There's a trail that follows the top of a small ridge.  On a dry day, I wouldn't have hesitated.  

     When I drove up this way two years ago, I had a really great lunch at the Cape Charles Brewery.   So, I went back.  I seemed to hit a quiet point in their day.  They didn't seem to mind that I was trying quite a few samples.  There was something on their list called Creamsicle Ale.  Interesting flavor with a light creamy aftertaste.  Interesting in a sample.  

    There was also something called Portside Saison.  Once brewed, it's stored in barrels that very recently held port wine.  First sip, a heavily prominent port flavor.  Second sip, a little less strong, more balanced flavor.  Third sip, kinda growing on me.  But a full pint, not today.

     Toss in a plate of steamed shrimp, and my day was turning up.

      Crossing the state line into Maryland, the sun finally comes out!

    Eventually, I worked my way out to the coast , then up to Dewey Beach, Delaware.  My home for the next two nights was the Gold Leaf Hotel.  I stayed here on my last visit.  It was off peak and they put me on the fourth floor.  This time, I was on the first floor, right up front.  Such a great view...

     Most of the places I stayed had signs suggesting people wear masks in the lobby.  This place mandated it.  At check in, they told me if I was caught in a public area unmasked, I'd get a warning.  Caught a second time, and I'd be asked to leave, forfeiting what I paid for the room.  Not a problem, I got in the habit of carrying a mask in my pocket when traveling.

     Two years ago, I walked across the street to a public dock for sunset.  The light show wasn't all that exciting, but I met a fascinating woman named Daphney.  We got to talking.  The next night, she was there again.  We wound up having dinner together and have kept in touch since.  

     She's the reason I made a stop once again in Dewey Beach.  Once again, we met at the same municipal dock.

     We still had some time to kill before sunset, so we even went to the same place for dinner, a bar/restaurant called Woodys.  We were seated right away, even though is seemed busy.  The staff, the food and the company were great.  We were having fun just chatting away.   Our timing couldn't have been better, as we walked out, we passed the hostess out front, she was telling people it was an hour wait.

        We drove a few miles south to the big bridge over the Indian River Inlet.  There's plenty of parking and a decent sized campground.  That's where we settled in for sunset.

 

   Just a great way to end the day...  

    Remember when I mentioned I was on the ground floor, right in front?  I heard every loud motorcycle, every car stereo and every conversation outside.  At one point, a group of teens were trying to convince someone else  to buy them beer.  Once obtained, the conversation shifted as to which room they were going to party in.  One suggested the room directly above mine.  You can imagine my relief when that was shot down.  

         

June Roadtrip, Day 11, Worth the Wait

 Day 11

Friday, June 11

     It wasn't raining when I woke up, but it certainly had that feeling in the air.  The thick cloud cover certainly put the damper on the hope of a big sunrise.  No complaints though.  Even on a day like this, it was still a sunrise on the beach.  

      While the wifi in the room was a joke, it was pretty good on the bench outside the lobby.  While sipping another coffee from the Ugly Mug Cafe, I plotted my day.  While I was denied a climb up the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, it suddenly occurred to me to check if the Bodie Island Lighthouse was open.  It was on the itinerary anyway.

     The website had tour times listed and there were a few slots available in an hour and a half.  It was less than an hour drive.  Perfect.  However, in the time it took me to remember my password on the National Park Service website, those slots were gone.  In the end, absolutely no complaints.  

    Heading north...

     Ten minutes later...

      And then this happened...

         It was raining heavily when I pulled into the parking lot for the Bodie Island Light Station.    I had two choices, settle in and wait it out, or just move on.  I took this on my phone, just cracking the window an inch or two.

      This actually the third lighthouse here.  The first was built in 1848 and only stood fifty-seven feet.  When it was discovered to be on unstable ground, it was turn down and replaced in 1861.  Two years later, it was destroyed by the Confederate military.  After the war, the current light was built and illuminated in 1872.  

     That's when I noticed two umbrellas up top.  The people who got my spot decided to go up anyway.  I'm not sure I would have.

       Twenty minutes later, the rain stopped.  

     Just a couple of miles south, I had passed the Oregon Inlet Fishing Center.  With the rain over, I doubled back.  Why?  Simple.  Mounted by the parking lot is the world's largest Blue Marlin ever caught.  It clocks in at fourteen feet and 1,142 pounds.  

          At this point, I had plenty of options.  I was on Hwy 12 near the bottom of the map.  

       Just for kicks, I decided to make my way to Corolla and have a pint at the North Outer Banks Brewery.  It didn't look that far on the map.  Along the way, I passed this curiosity,  a castle poking up out of a huge sand dune.  

     At one time, this was a miniature golf course.  All that remains is the castle.  Depending on the shifting sands, it sometimes disappears as well.

      It didn't take long for two lanes to become one and traffic to start slowing down...

    There comes a point where you have to make the decision.  You can either continue on your dopey quest, or turn around.  I kept going.  Around the town of Duck, named for the plentiful ducks in the area, everything changed.  The traffic heading southbound also started stacking up.  I kept telling myself it couldn't be like this the whole way.  I was wrong.

     Eventually, I did make it to the town of Corolla, named after the botanic word for flower petals.  I arrived at North Outer Banks Brewing a bit later than I had anticipated.  

    The brewery itself is pretty small and tucked around the far corner.  All seating is outside where they share tables with the neighboring restaurant.  Nice enough place, and their IPA was really good.   But, somehow I doubt I'll be making this drive again.  I certainly wasn't looking forward to the drive back south.

    Just for kicks, I dug out the GPS and input the motel.  It said two hours and ten minutes point to point.  It took three and a half.  

     Seen while stuck in southbound traffic.

      Eventually, I did make it to Norfolk and found Ocean View Avenue.  My home for the night was a place called Bay Inn.  Blink and you'll miss this unassuming place.

      It didn't look like much from the outside.  But, all the newer reviews mentioned a recent remodel.  It's basic square design, with a courtyard in the middle and all rooms accessible from there.  You just don't see much from the street.  As an added bonus, it really is two blocks from the lower end of the Chesapeake Bay.  

       

             Since I was stuck in traffic for lunch, I was looking for something hearty for dinner.  A quarter mile up the street sits the Bold Mariner Brewing Company.    Imagine if you can, a thick barbecue sandwich, the sauce with just enough spice to give it something a little extra.  Now imagine a layer of mac and cheese.  They call it Beef and Smack.  It's drippy and messy, but oh so good.  

           After dinner, it was time to head out to the beach for a walk, and perhaps a sunset.  To get there, I had to walk past these homes.  I don't think I want to know just how much they run,

  While sunset on the beach turned out to be nothing more than varied shades of gray, the walk certainly felt good.