Monday, June 5, 2023

Michigan Bound, Day 3, A Day in Toledo

Wednesday, May 31, 2023


    Somehow it felt appropriate for a month long tour of Michigan to start here in Toledo. But, first things first. Toledo, Ohio is named after Toledo, Spain, which in turn takes their name from the Latin "toletum" or City of Generations.
    When the city was first incorporated in 1833, it was considered to be a part of the Michigan Territory. Considering its location on the Maumee River and the western edge of Lake Erie, the city was destined to grow. Ohio claimed their official state border was just a bit north and would include Toledo.

    Borders were surveyed and resurveyed. Neither side was willing to back down. Gov. Lucas of Ohio and Gov. Mason of Michigan both sent their militia to settle the matter. Both set up camp on their side of the Maumee River.

    The U.S. Congress had been aware of what was going on, but had other priorities. A potential military skirmish made them take notice. A compromise was offered and accepted. Michigan would give up its claim to Toledo. In turn, the territory would get the Upper Peninsula and the process of statehood would be sped up.

    As for the militias, there were a few reports of guns being fired in the air and some taunting back and forth across the river.

    The first thing I checked was the schedule for the Toledo Mudhens. They're the AAA team for the Detroit Tigers. Unfortunately, they were playing in Indianapolis against the Indians.

    Instead, I simply chose to explore a few of the area's parks. I decided to start south in the suburb of Grand Rapids. Providence Metropark sits alongside the Miami and Erie Canal which was built to connect Toledo and Cincinnati.  Legend has it the townspeople from Gilead(now Grand Rapids) weren't too happy the canal was bypassing them.  So, they snuck out at night and sabotaged the day's work.  In the end, the canal builders relented and built a nine mile spur.
    At the headwaters of the canal, they build a timber dam to deflect just enough water into the canal. 



     The timber dam was replaced by concrete in 1908, then refurbished in 1991.  







      The Toledo, Lake Erie and Western Railroad hasn't used this bridge in a long time.  I passed a section of the track a half mile away when it crossed the road.  Long sections of the actual track were gone and overgrown.   



     About a half mile up the canal towpath is the Isaac Ludwig Mill.  It's not the first here.  The Manor Mill stood here until the state declared eminent domain and tore it down to build the new canal.  Peter Manor worked a deal where he would be able to build a new, bigger mill once the canal was completed.  
     Manor hired Ludwig to build the mill just before his passing.  Ludwig bought the property and continued to build the mill.


      If you keep walking a short way down the canal, you'll come across a replica of a canal boat, once towed along by mules.  During tourist season, there are tours up and down the canal.
 


         

      Walking back along the towpath towards the car, I walked under a roadway overpass.  The sun was reflecting off the water and dancing on the underside.



     Just for kicks, I did drive across the river to downtown Grand Rapids.  While the rapids didn't look too grand, I could imagine trying to get a boat down this section of the river.  


       I drove back towards Toledo along Hwy 24.  A few exits east is the turnoff for the Fallen Timbers Battlefield.  On the grounds is a mile and a half trail through the site with historical markers along the way.


     
     In 1794, the United States was pushing its boundaries westward, establishing military forts and outposts.  That summer, a confederation of Native-American tribes decided to do something about it.  The two sides clashed in the woods on the site.  The name Fallen Timbers refers to the area of forest where the battle took place.  Years before, a tornado had touched down and toppled trees here.
     The British had been allied with the local tribes, but were skittish about getting into another armed conflict.  When it was clear only limited help would be offered, the tribes agreed to negotiate peace.  A year later, the Treaty of Greenville was signed opening even more land to settlers in what we now know as Ohio.
     While the battlefield in on the north side of Hwy 24, the memorials are in a park on the south side.  This is for the American dead in the battle...


     Across from it sits the memorial for the Native-American dead.  Legend has it Chief Turkey Foot addressed his forces while standing on that rock.   
 

     There's a third, much larger memorial in the park, dedicated to the signing of the Treaty of Greenville.


     The local tribes weren't the only ones concerned about America's expansion westward.  While the Treaty of Paris gave ownership to the United States, Britain refused to give up their forts and continued to occupy the area.  The contention being, we hadn't paid our debts to them yet.  While under orders not to fire upon Americans, they paid close attention to the battle taking place just up the road.
     Fort Miamis is long gone, but you can still see the trenches and gully the British troops dug to protect it.



     I still wasn't thinking about lunch, so I drove out to a place called the Manhattan Marsh.  The marsh used to be much larger and the city restored this section as a wildlife preserve.  




     Never gets old...



      There's a 1.3 mile loop trail around the marsh.  It's mostly level and well maintained.  

      We've all seen Cottonwood seeds drifting through the area.  What I hadn't seen were drifts of them collecting alongside the ground.  Best guess, they're about eight inches tall.



     The backside of the preserve runs alongside an active railroad.  A trail leads to the back entrance and another small parking lot.  Never gets old...



    Actor Jamie Farr grew up in Toledo.  In 1998, the city renamed his childhood park in his honor.



    No visit to Toledo would be complete without a visit to Tony Packo's. The son of Hungarian immigrants, he borrowed $100 from relatives to open a sandwich and ice cream shop in 1932. He took Hungarian sausage, sliced them, added some sauce and served it on rye bread. They were an instant hit in the neighborhood. Tony's son runs the place now and they're up to five restaurants.
     If you get them all the way, it comes with mustard, sauerkraut, secret sauce and chili.  Tasty, but I didn't feel the need to eat the rest of the day.






    Most of you will recognize the name from M*A*S*H where Max Klinger mentions them six times. The first time he said "If you are ever in Toledo, Ohio, on the Hungarian side of town, Tony Packo's got the greatest Hungarian hot dogs." And yes, they do have photos from the show.


     Years ago, actor Burt Reynolds visited and was asked for an autograph.  So, he signed a hot dog bun. 



     On the restaurant walls you can seen hundreds of them from politicians, celebrities and famous musicians.















     After lunch I took a drive over to Quenched and Tempered Brewing Company. 


    I did my usual flight of four.  The brewmaster was milling about and asked what I thought.  I told him I was curious about one of them because I couldn't place the flavor.  He rattled off a long list of hops he had used to make it and give it that flavor.  He then insisted I try samples of more.  We wound up talking for quite some time.  He even gave me some advice for a few stops further on the adventure.  


     He also told me about something called "Beer Poking."  In the dead of winter, you let your stout get slushy from the cold, they stick a red hot poker into the beer before serving it hot.  The heat of the poker partially carmelizes the sugar giving the beer a different flavor.  

    In downtown, the City of Glass Metropark sits along the Maumee River and celebrates the city's nickname as well as it's status as the largest supplier of glass in the country.

    In 1888, Edward Libbey moved the New England Glass Company to Toledo and renamed it Libbey. With an abundance of natural gas, easy access to steamships and railroads, as well as plenty of high quality sand, he felt it was a natural move.  And they're still there.

     On the north-eastern end of the park is where you'll find the National Museum of the Great Lakes.  There's the museum itself, but also tours through a tugboat and a really big freighter.  





    Seen on the back of a car in the parking lot.







    On the drive back to the motel, I caught the red light by the Hotel Lorraine.  It certainly looked like a place with some history.



       The Hotel Lorraine first opened its doors in 1925.  The interior was designed to "produce a homelike atmosphere and attractiveness uncommon to hotel life."  Other hotel owners were invited to the grand opening and one described it as "the last word on modern construction, equipment and furnishings."
     J.A. Hadley, the hotel's owner declared "the carrying of ice water by bellhops...will be eliminated by ice water lines to all rooms.  A large ice machine in the basement of the building refrigerates the water for the rooms."
     Hadley had successfully run other high end hotels in the city before taking on the Hotel Lorraine,  The question was, why in this spot.  It wasn't exactly a high rent neighborhood.  
     By the 1960's it was mostly bars,  By the 1970's the neighborhood had been nicknamed the Jefferson Avenue Circus.  The bars had become a little more seedy, strip clubs had moved in  and the prostitution was out in the open.  
      The hotel went downhill, just like the neighborhood.  The doors were finally shuttered in 2019 after the new owners were convicted of fraud.  WTOL-TV did a report in the closing of the hotel, where it had become low income housing.  You can see that here:
      Reporter Caylee Kirby got a look inside as it went to auction.  You can see her report here:


     

    

Michigan Bound, Day 2, Onward to Ohio

Tuesday, May 30, 2023

     When I took the first load of stuff out to the car, I could see fog in the distance.  My first thought was, so much for sunrise.  When I went out to get ice for the cooler, a hint of color was showing over the hillside...




     With some time in the morning, I did a search for hiking trails near Rocky Top.  Walden Ridge seemed like a good fit.  It wasn't too long, well marked and the views looked beautiful.  The problem would be getting there.  Multiple reviews mentioned the road out as narrow with a steep drop off.  One described it as "unexpectedly terrifying."  Yeah, I passed.  
    Instead, I simply drove a few miles up I-75 to Cove Lake State Park. There are plenty of trails throughout the park, some short and some as long as eleven miles.  I really didn't have that much time, so I chose the loop trail through the woods,  It's paved, mostly level and 1.6 miles around.  Not a bad way to start the day.
     


     The only tricky part is where the beavers have dammed one area of the lake and it partially flooded the trail.  



    As for the lake...






     I still had plenty of time before I had to go, so I simply went around the loop again.  Starting the day with an easy 3.2 miles just felt good.


     The second stop of the day was Lexington, Kentucky. I was meeting my friend Connie at a local chain restaurant called Ramsey's.  The first opened in 1989 with the plan to stick with fresh food and reasonable prices.  It caught on and there are now four locations in the Lexington area.


     Connie brought her friend Brenda and the three of us spend over two hours talking.  I would have loved to linger a bit more, but I still had three hours of driving ahead of me.  So, we said out good-byes and took a few pictures.  That's Brenda on the left and Connie in the middle.




     Of course any stop at the Kentucky/Ohio border wouldn't be complete without a visit to Riverside Park, adjacent to the John A. Roebling Bridge.  Roebling was the bridge's original engineer and designer.  He oversaw the first phase of construction starting in 1867.  His son Washington oversaw its completion.  



     Meanwhile, Roebling was trying to secure the contract to build what would become the Brooklyn Bridge.  He insisted on showing the New York bridge committee his bridges by boat.  When they reached Cincinnati and saw his latest work, he got the contract.



     In the park, there's also a statue of Captain Mary Greene.  She earned her captain's license in 1897 and spent fifty years running steamships for the Greeneline Steamship Company.  


     There's also a bench taken from one of the old steamships...

     The drive north from the state line to Toledo was a little over two hours.  Once passed Cincinnati, it was speed limit conditions the entire way and fairly light traffic.  As I drove along I-75, the sun was in and out of the clouds, making some nice light effects.  This was taken as I drive along at 70MPH, just pointing my camera at the window, shooting and hoping I'd get something.

     Eventually, I did make it to Toledo and just in time for sunset,



    My home for the night was the Miami Suites Inn. The crazy thing is, when I saw this place on Hotels.com, there were absolutely no reviews.   I checked on Tripadvisor.com. No reviews there, either. It turns out, this used to be a Days Inn.  When ownership changed, all the reviews went with it.  I did find some for when this was still Days Inn, and they were a mixed bag. Reviews seemed to circle around three out of five stars.
    The place is under renovation.  My room seemed fine, but the handles on the sliding glass door are missing.  With no lock, there's a metal pole to put in the door's track so it won't open.  Also, no hot breakfast since the kitchen is getting a makeover, too.  Decent place.  But, you'd never impress someone here.




Michigan Bound, Day 1, Good Old Rocky Top

 Monday, May 29, 2023

     Considering the prospect of dealing with a full day of holiday traffic, and the fact the nice weather looked like it was going to hold out, I decided to drive up to the Knoxville, Tennessee area and hit a few trails.  I'd still have a long day's drive tomorrow, but it would be a little more reasonable.

     Somehow, someway, I had breakfast cleaned up and the car packed by 5A.  Since I learned a long time ago Sundays and holidays bring out the interstate amateurs, I decided it best to just go.  The traffic sites all said clear sailing through midtown and it did feel weird driving through again.  I had already made it as far as Resaca, GA when the sun finally peeked over the horizon.


     My first scheduled stop for the day was the town of Tellico Plains, TN.  


     Tellico Plains was once an important Underhill Cherokee crossroads town named Great Tellico after the adjacent river.  Settlers would eventually push them out and turn it into a lumber and farming community.  

    Noting the quality of the iron ore in the area, Elisha and Ebinezer Johnson moved here from Rochester, New York and started the Tellico Iron and Manufacturing Company in 1843.  During the Civil War, the Confederates took over the iron works and used it to produce munitions for their army. 

     Knowing Elisha Johnson's loyalties were with the north, he and his workers were kept under strict watch.  When Union General William T. Sherman brought his army into Knoxville, he heard about the iron works.  He marched south to Tellico Plains and took it back, making Johnson's house his headquarters.  Elisha Johnson was put on trial and acquitted for supporting the Confederacy.  Due to his loyalties, his home was spared.  But, the iron works were destroyed.  

    Tellico Plains is also the original eastern terminus of the TransAmerica Trail.  The original trail was 4,253 miles from here to Oregon.  Heading west, it starts with forest and farm roads, then it starts getting interesting.  There's a reason it's only travelled by off road and 4WD vehicles. 

     Sam Correro is the man behind the trail.  In 1984, he was looking for a way to explore his home state of Mississippi on his motorcycle while avoiding the main roads and bigger towns.  Instead, he used off road trails and dirt roads.  He would eventually map out a course from here to Oregon, then expanding it eastward to the Atlantic Coast.  In a 2021 interview, he talked about his current project, a loop around the entire country.  

     When asked his overall view of his travels, he said, "It turned into a wonderful adventure.  You see parts of this country that people never see, all the mom and pop convenience stores and little restaurants and motels, and you just get a feeling of what this country is all about."

      David Scott of Rider Magazine made the attempt in November, 2021 and wrote about it.  You can read the article here:  Canadian cyclist Eric Anderson made an eleven minute video of his attempt from 2018.  You can watch that here:  If you're feeling ambitious, the folks at Overland Pioneers did an hour long video when they completed the western half of the trail.  You can see that here: 

     On the drive into town I passed a sign for Lost Sea Caverns.  The cavern contains the largest underground lake in the United States.  Click the link and there's a CBS This Morning story on their website.  

    I also passed signs for the Monroe County Rodeo.  It starts Friday.

     The first trail of the day was supposed to be Turtletown Falls.  The hiking guidebook described it as a 3.7 mile loop past two waterfalls.  It seemed a perfect start .  One thing I learned a long time ago, you also have to check on Alltrails.com.  They'll tell you things the guidebooks don't.  This includes recent conditions and how well the trail is marked.  They'll also tell you about the road to the trailhead.  When it says, "Users suggest having a 4WD vehicle in order to reach the trailhead due to rocky road conditions," I tend to look elsewhere.  

    Turtletown Falls and Conasauga Falls are both outside Tellico Plains.  There were no road warnings on this one.  It seemed like a perfect alternative.  Forest Road 341 started out paved and in decent condition.  


     At about a quarter mile, the potholes had me slowing my pace.  At .6 miles, the road was partially washed out.  That's actually a hole in the middle of the road.  I had a sinking suspicion I didn't want to take my CR-V over it.  Since the roads was narrow with a steep dropoff to my right, I had no choice but to start backing down the road until it was safe to turn around.  So far, 0-2 for waterfalls.

      Since I was driving past the county visitor center anyway, I stopped in for a local map and to report the washed out road.  The young woman working the information desk was just great and couldn't have been from anywhere else but Tennessee.  When I asked about Bald River Falls, she gave me directions complete with landmarks.  They were spot on.  

    Six miles down Forest Road 210, aka River Road, I'd find the falls and a place to park.  As an added bonus, the road was paved the entire way!  From the drive out...


    Upper Bald River Falls from the road bridge.


     There's also a .7 mile trail up to the Middle Falls.  Not a bad trail, though of course it starts going up.




     The top of the falls...

     


        And eventually Middle Falls...


       The trail does keep going, at least as far as this switchback.  Beyond that tree, the trail is partially washed away.  I took it as a sign and turned around.  



     Lunch was up the road in Knoxville at a place called the Smokey Mountain Brewery.  The food was delicious, as was the beer.  Kristin and her trainee couldn't have been nicer.  


      Seen on the walk back to the car...



      It was still only mid-afternoon at this point.  So, I punched in the address for Norris Dam State Park.  There were plenty of short trails to keep me busy.  Once again the GPS led me astray.  In the end, no complaints.  Passing two long abandoned railroad bridges definitely made up for it.  The weird thing is, I couldn't find any information from the usual sources.  The closest I found reference to is thirty miles away.



      My home for the night was the Econolodge in the town of Rocky Top.  The song "Rocky Top" isn't about the town.  It's a song written by Felice and Boudleaux Bryant in 1967.  The couple had been working on a series of slower songs for Archie Campbell and Chet Atkins.  As a diversion, they started working on something upbeat on the side.  

     The Osbourne Brothers recorded the song and it went to #33 on the country music charts.  Though you're probably more familiar with the Dolly Parton version.  It's now one of many states songs of Tennessee.  Seriously, there are ten of them.

     The town that became Rocky Top was first named Coal Creek.  In 1890, it was the site of an armed labor uprising in the mines.  The owners had been replacing their paid workers with free prison labor.  The now former workers rebelled.  They burned mine property and released hundreds of convict laborers.  The Tennessee State Militia was even called out to restore order.  As a result, the state was forced to roll back its free convict labor laws.  

      As for the town, they changed their name to Lake City when the Tennessee Valley Authority build the Norris Dam and lake.  Lake City only became Rocky Top in 2014, named after the song.   

     Driving through downtown was a bit depressing with quite a few businesses empty or boarded up.  


    Chapman's Restaurant



      The only place open on this stretch of downtown was Coal Creek Coffee.  They only opened last year.  The coffee was excellent, as was the staff.  Jesse, one of the owners, was in the shop.  He's also a photographer.  I should have asked if he knew anything about the abandoned rail line.  

    As the day waned, I took my camera and started looking for an open space to hopefully shoot sunset.  This took me down a hill into a quiet neighborhood.


     I found an open area and settled it, scrolling through my phone.  I guy in an SUV pulled up and asked if I was from the county.  Apparently, he's trying to open a campground and getting some grief.  I told him I was staying at the motel and just looking for a place for sunset.  

     As for sunset...



    And the EconoLodge, nothing special. But, no complaints.
















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