Sunday, September 3, 2017

California Day 16...Looking for a Punchline

Saturday 8/26/17

     I only had one full day in San Francisco.  Looking back it was definitely a full one.  It began with a breakfast of blueberry pancakes.  My sister makes them with rice flour.  It’s a different flavor than I’m used to and really good.  Thanks Sis!.
    From there we took a short drive out to the town of Pacifica and a walk down the Mori Point Trail to the beach.  To the south the trail heads up into the neighboring hillside to the point.  To the north it’s a wide paved path alongside the beach.  We chose the beach.   
   It was another foggy morning on the beach, but not nearly to the level of the previous few days.  The path was full of walkers, runners, bikers and one very compliant crow. 



    We decided to walk down to the fishing pier and back.  The pier itself was pretty packed with people casting and waiting.  Being the area it is, there were conversations going on in quite a few languages as we passed on by.  And in a reflection of modern times, we eve passed a few people in chairs, their lines cast and staring into their phones.




    A little backstory to the rest of the day.  I listen to a lot of NPR on the road.  One of the hot topics was the upcoming “freedom rally” to be held in Berkeley by a group who call themselves Patriot Prayer.  They claim to be fighting to end corruption in government and support free speech.  The Southern Poverty Law Center describes them a little differently.  Instead of being all about free speech and freedom, they’re more about confrontation and provoking a response from the political left.   According to some of the NPR analyists, they also attract supporting protesters from the ranks of the white supremacists.  After Charlottesville, there was definitely some concern.
    Numerous groups planned counter protests and rallies, both in the Berkeley park with the Patriot Prayer folks and others around the greater San Francisco area. Patriot Prayer canceled their original rally citing “safety concerns.”  They moved their rally to another park which the city promptly closed for the day.  They then promised pop up protests in and around the city.   These never materialized.
    Shortly after I arrived at my sister’s, she received an email from Rabbi Mark.  He was attending a peace rally on the beach and invited her along.  The organizers were planning to make a giant heart on the beach and people were suggested to wear red or pink.
   So, after getting back from Pacifica, we went off to join the rally.  We were invited to lunch at Rabbi Mark’s synagogue, an easy twenty block walk.  This was my first time in a synagogue and yeah, I felt a little like a fish out of water.  But the congregation were welcoming and just some really great people.



    After lunch we were met by another rabbi and minister. We all walked the two miles to the rally together.  We did try and come up with a good joke to… Two rabbis, a swami and a minister walk into a peace protest and… But, nothing seemed to work.  It was a fun. lively chat the whole way.


    The organizers had yellow tape laid out on the sand in the heart shape and were trying to spread the rest of us out to fill the inside a little more evenly.  The way it was originally billed was for a helicopter to fly over and take pictures.  Well, there was no helicopter.  There were the however a few drones.  But then again in this day and age I would have been surprised if there hadn’t been any.  




    The crowd was in good spirits and most of the signs and banners were peaceful in origin with a few “Resist” ones pointed at President Trump and a few others calling for the rest of us to stand up to racism.
    



    There was also this guy...



   At the center of the heart, a giants American flag.   


   While the drones were flying overhead we were led in singalongs to “America the Beautiful,” “This is Your Land” and finally “Imagine.”  It was funny watching people whip out their phones to find the lyrics and then follow along.  You can see the drone video here.
     Afterwards the crowd just seemed to disburse.  Since we were right across from it, we decide to go off and spend the rest of the afternoon exploring Golden Gate Park.  This was my third time in the city and the first time in the park.
     There were plenty of people out and about on foot and on bicycles.  We passed a few parties and at least one wedding.  It was a perfect day for it.  The sun had finally burned through the worst of the fog and the steady breeze kept everyone cool.
      One thing you really can't miss in the park are a pair of large dutch windmills.  The first was built in 1903 for the purpose of pumping ground water for the park's use.  The second was completed five years later.  After ten years of use, electric pumps made them unnecessary and they fell into disrepair.  The north windmill was restored in 1987 and the southern mill restored in 2012.




     One thing you won’t find in your average big city park is a bison preserve.  Yes, there is a herd of bison grazing in the park.  Granted, they’re behind a double fence. 



       When the park was being designed, the idea was to honor the spirit of the wild west.  This meant you needed some bison.  So, in 1891 the first was brought to the park.  More were brought in a few years later.  The current herd is six, all female.  The park wants bison, just not overly aggressive bulls.  Understandable since they're prone to anger and can weight up to 2,000 pounds.
        Seen on the walk through the park...



     In the middle of the parks sits a Japanese Tea Garden, the oldest in the United States.  It was originally a part of a Japanese Village exhibit for the 1894 Worlds Fair.  Japanese immigrant Makoto Hagiwara oversaw the construction and the exhibit.  He remained its caretaker and oversaw its exhibit in the 1915 in the Panama-Pacific International Exhibition.  After the exhibition, Hagiwara bought the garden.  His daughter kept the garden after his death.  Unfortunately, the anti-Japanese hysteria of WWII found it confiscated and the family moved to an internment camp.  The garden was renamed the Oriental Tea Garden and some of the Japanese stylings updated to reflect a more Chinese atmosphere.  The garden was eventually returned to the Hagiwara family who restored it to what it is today.
      And yes, there is an actual tea house within the garden.  And yes we did stop for some tea.  








    On the far end of the park is a place my sister really wanted to visit.  It’s alongside the Flower Conservatory.  It’s a decent sized fenced area fully of dalias, thus the name Dahlia Park.  We met a fellow photographer who knew a lot about them and said we hit them just about peak time.  And the low light of the end of the day really made the colors shine. 









      Feeling pretty amazed by the dahlia garden, we decided to call it a day.  We worked our way back out the southern end of the park and just started walking.  We stopped at various restaurants, reading their menus in the window and moving on.  Eventually we found ourselves in a small pizza place called Biania's where Erica took good care of us.   It was just good to get off our feet and chat for a while.  
    After a really nice dinner and break from walking, we decided to take the trolley and bus back home.  We were pretty much done for anyway.  The highlight of trip home took place at our transfer bus stop.  A random woman walked up, stuck her hand out like she was looking for a fist bump and asked if we were there for the anti-supremecists rally.  I said slyly, “maybe.”  When her face suddenly became a little confused, I told her we had been at the heart shaped rally on the beach.  At which point she insisted on giving me a big, lingering hug.  You really don’t know who you’ll meet at a random bus stop.
     Back home I said my good-byes to my Sis and called it a night.  My alarm was set for 2:30A so I could get to the airport, drop off the rental car and my checked bag before the first flight out.
I pulled into Hertz line amongst all these clean cars.  My Altima had dust from the Crater Lake road construction, volcanic ash from Crescent City and salt residue from my tour of the coast.  My black car looked more gray.
    The flight itself was mostly uneventful.  We got some chop flying over Oklahoma and Arkansas from the remnants of Hurricane Harvey.  But, I’ve flown through worse.  I was just happy to be back in Atlanta at a reasonable time.  I do enjoy traveling, but the trips home you just want to be over and done with. 

David
8/2017

PS: I’m heading back for a return visit to Alaska in June.  In my research  I came across something phenomenal I’d love to see, but it’s kind of out of the way and elusive.   There’s a not so little place called the Bering Land Bridge Preserve.  It's actually about 270,000 acres.  Every fall for anywhere between one week and two it goes all out with autumn color.  It’s not the trees, it's the low plants on the ground.  Imagine if you can a huge, wide open area where the ground is matted in reds, yellows and oranges.  Now imagine that as far as the eye can see.  Sounds pretty amazing right!  Check out photographer Patrick Endres' web page and you'll see what I mean.   
    Well, it’s not like autumn in the north Georgia mountains where you can check webcams and dash up at peak color.  The only way to get there is by air.  I would have had to fly to Seattle, Anchorage and then Nome.  From Nome I would have had to charter a plane ride into the preserve.  Yes, there is an airstrip and a Park Service cabin, a very bare bones cabin.  The airstrip is alongside a place called the Serpentine Hot Spring.    
    There is a plane service in Nome that does the trip fairly routinely for people who want to soak in the hot spring or simply adventurous types.  The spring is 171 degrees by the way.  But here’s the thing, when the autumn colors are over, they’re over.  And, there’s no way to really guess exactly when it will happen. 
     The flight to Nome is a full day each way with the layovers.  It’s a long way to go for a chance.  But yes, I really did give it some consideration.  I have a few days this month.  But, I wouldn’t get much time in the preserve before having to turn around and come back.  I would spend more time travelling than exploring.  Perhaps next fall...




Saturday, September 2, 2017

California Day 15, San Francisco Bound

Friday 8/25/17


     Time to move on and leave Pt. Reyes behind. I had enjoyed my stay and could easily see myself coming back here again some time.  I’ll just double check the trail guides the next time.  I would have liked to get closer to the waterfall and there was something referred to as “the arch” in one of the trail guides.  
    I pulled out of Gilbert and Elizabeth’s driveway bright and early. Next stop San Francisco…eventually.   First stop was a place in downtown Pt. Reyes called Toby’s for some coffee.  Yes, it does come back in the narrative.
   A long time ago I discovered a morning cup of coffee and a walk on the beach just seem to fit together.  With that thought I drove out to Limantour Beach.  It’s a quick walk from the parking lot across a shallow march to the beach.



    It was long past sunrise and there was way too much coastal fog anyway.  So, I walked out with my coffee in hand and camera slung over my shoulder.  I met two older women coming back from the beach and we got to chatting.  They asked where I bought my coffee. I told them Toby’s.  They get theirs from a place called Bovine Bakery. They told me “,the coffee sucks, but the pastries are delicious.”    
    The only other people on the beach were from the Parks Service.  They were studying the nests of the endangered Western Snowy Plover and seemed happy with that they were seeing.  What they were unhappy about were the unleashed dogs on the beach despite the signs posted in the parking lot and along the path to the beach.  . 
    With the coffee finished it was time to go.  I worked my day out of the park and back onto Hwy 1 due south.  Everything was fine until I hit Stinson Beach. The road was closed due to a rock slide.  I don’t especially like detours, and found myself zigzagging along a mountain road for quite a while before finally finding my way back to Hwy 1.
     Just before the Bay Bridge into San Francisco, there’s an exit that takes you up to a series of overlooks of the bridge and the city.  There were no open spaces as I drove by.  When I turned around and drove back, it seemed obvious I wasn’t going to see anything from the furthest two overlooks.  The fog was just way too thick to see anything but a wall of white.
        The overlook closest to the bridge sits on what was once Battery Spencer.  The original battery was placed here in 1910 as part of the city's defenses.  During WW1 some of the guns were taken out to be sent to Europe to support the fighting there.  The remaining guns were removed during WWII to help feed the need for scrap metal.  



      The view from the bridge overlook wasn't quite what I expected.  But, it was still well worth the effort.




    
    Hwy 1 became 19th Avenue across the bridge and it was an easy time finding my sister's cross street.  A few blocks late and there I was, the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Center.  My sister is a swami here and when she's not running the place she's teaching classes on yoga, meditation, nutrition and restoring the body's balance.  I met some of the staff and a few students.  It's hard to describe, but there's just a certain serenity to the place.
    It's an amazing facility.  While it's on a side street, it's still pretty busy outside.  But, you can feel the calm atmosphere as soon as you walk in the door.  She tells me deliverymen have stopped by to drop off packages, left and come back to comment on it.  


     Lunch was a delicious assortment of traditional southern Indian dishes I'll admit I had never heard of before.  Lots of flavor and simply delicious.
     After lunch we took a walk around the neighborhood, stopping into a Chinese run Italian ice cream place.  The menu speaks for itself.






       I had a scoop of chocolate mocha and one scoop of sesame which was very good, though an odd gray color.  We also wandered into Pine Lake Park, a deeply bowl shaped park surrounded by thick trees.  Midday it's mostly walkers and people using the dog park.  But, on Sunday afternoons in the summer it's the site of the Stern Grove Festival, a series of outdoor concerts.  
    We checked the weather around the Bay Bridge and some places said fog while others said it was clearing.  So, as dusk approached, we took a drive north to Marina Avenue and around to Fort Point.      The first fort was built on the site in 1794 by Spain to keep the British out.  Mexico won its independence in 1821 and took control of the fort.  In 1845 it was captured by U.S. troops and the canons spiked during the Mexican American War.  The U.S. Army Corp of Engineers rebuilt the fort in 1853 to protect the city during the suddenly booming gold rush.  It was manned during the Civil War but was never needed.  Thirty years later the out of date guns were removed and sold for scrap.
     The fort became a barracks, a storage facility and a military prison.  Considering how much shipping came in and out of San Francisco during WWII, it's armament was updated and replaced. It was also a barracks for those manning the three minefields outside the harbor and the anti-submarine net inside the harbor.  
    Today it’s a national historic site and sits at the northern end of the bay bridge.

    You couldn’t really see much with the fog and fading light and there didn’t seem to be that much traffic on the water.   It was just the two of us, a fisherman and the blast of the fort’s foghorn every twenty seconds.







     One last stop to make.  Ordinarily I wouldn't bother mentioning a stop at the grocery store.  But, my sister was looking for something out of the ordinary, so we stopped into a place called the Rainbow Grocery.  They specialize in vegetarian and organic foods.  I was just taking it all in.  There was just something intriguing and about the rich mixtures of new smells.  Interesting place for sure.

Coming Up on Day 16,
We go searching for a punchline and it evades us all

California Day 14...Excited About Otter Poop

Thursday 8/24/17

     After the previous day’s marathon hiking adventure, I decided to take it easy.  My legs felt heavy as I got ready to face the day.  Today would still be a respectable eight miles, but nothing close to the previous day.
     Just up the road is the parking area for the Tomales Bay Trail.  It’s 3.4 miles round trip and a perfect way to work the kinks out of my tired body.  The trail itself is fairly level with only gently rolling hills.  No steep ones like yesterday.  The only other thing were the four cattle gates. 








     The trail never gets to the bay shore  It just sort of ends at a barb wire fence. Still, a nice hike and my legs had worked out their stiffness.   On the way back I met a guy crouched down in the mud by a large pool of water.  He had been staring intently, but stood as I passed.  He was doing research on otters by counting and examining their poop.  He said based on what he was seeing the otter population was doing better than expected.  He seemed quite excited, but had to check a few other places, too.  
      Passing back through downtown Pt. Reyes(all four blocks of it) I noticed a sign for Parachute Days.  Just missed it.
     After lunch I chose a 3.8 mile round trip hike to Bull Point.  The kiosk at the trailhead warned that cattle trails could easily be mistaken for the main trail.  I had gone maybe a quarter mile when I was in the midst of the cattle herd.  Instantly I understood the sign.  I counted at least four ways the trail could have gone.  I went back to the car.


    Just up the road is a 2.8 mile round trip trail out to Abbotts Lagoon.   This time the cattle were behind a fence and the trail hard to miss.  Based on the number of people with binoculars, this is apparently a big place for bird watching.

   



    I left the birdwatchers and walked back to the car.  Just up the way was another trailhead to a place called Kehoe Beach.  This was only one and a quarter mile round trip.  I was hoping to get lucky with some whales.  I could have sworn I saw a few spouts way in the distance, but no tails,  Oh well.





  Seen on a wall in downtown Pt. Reyes.