Sunday 8/20/17
After a truly
hearty breakfast back at the Palm Café, it was off to my next adventure. In the café the night before, someone
mentioned Ladybird Johnson Grove. It’s a
section of the national forest she had visited and enjoyed. She said, "One of my most unforgettable memories of the past years is walking through the Redwoods last November, seeing the lovely shafts of light filtering through the trees so far above, feeling the majesty and silence of that forest, and watching a salmon rise in one of those swift streams. All our problems seemed to slip into perspective and I think every one of us walked out more serene and happier." I'll go along with that. Six years later, President Nixon dedicated a
section of the redwood forest in her name.
It’s an easy mile and a quarter loop trail through the trees, and less than a mile backtracking on the road. All in all, a good way to stretch the legs and start the day.
I took a quick
pause at a rest stop(Hey California, other states offer free wifi at rest
stops. Just saying) On the walk back to
the car, the woman in the next vehicle asked if I was a salesman. She had noticed the maps and commented that I
was dressed like one. Odd since I was in
gray hiking pants and a t-shirt. I told
her no, I was on vacation and taking the scenic route to San Francisco to visit
my sister. This was her first time in California and she was on her way to a new job tending for horses on a ranch.
My next stop was
in the town of Trinidad. It’s a pretty
small town. I came for the waterfront. There’s also a replica of their original
lighthouse, along with the original fog bell.
Due to erosion, the lighthouse replica is very, very slowly tilting towards
the ocean. There’s talk of moving it
back, but there isn’t much room.
South of Loleta,
I pulled of and tried to find the Ferndale Petrolia Road. My first attempt had me back in Loleta. I didn’t want to be there, but did see this
cool wooden railroad trestle.
My second
attempt somehow had me back on the 101.
Third time’s the charm. I finally saw the sign, mostly obscured by a
tree branch. This eventually brought me
to downtown Ferndale where I missed the sign for Petrolia and wound up driving
through downtown twice.
Finally on the
right course, I started up the road. The
twenty-three mile stretch of road to Petrolia certainly was scenic. But, for a road with so few actual potholes,
it was by far the roughest paved road I have ever driven. Between the oddly sized and randomly
scattered bumps and the serpentine curves, it certainly tested the Altima's suspension as well as my patience.
Little did I know what was in store further up the road.
Eventually, the
road did bring me to the town of Petrolia.
This was waiting for me at the turnoff.
I pulled over and contemplated. Five miles down this side road sat the parking area for the hike out to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. The guidebook said it was an easy, level six miles round trip hike. I looked at the road. I looked at the map. I looked at the clock. Even at a brisk pace, would I get to Mendocino by dark?
I pulled over and contemplated. Five miles down this side road sat the parking area for the hike out to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse. The guidebook said it was an easy, level six miles round trip hike. I looked at the road. I looked at the map. I looked at the clock. Even at a brisk pace, would I get to Mendocino by dark?
A few miles
further I crossed this bridge in the town of Honeydew. The road got progressively worse as I drove
out. Along with the twists, the tight
turns, and the random bumps, I had potholes to deal with. I’m not talking the generic pot holes we
encounter every day. These were the industrial sized ones
that jar fillings and make you wondering what the rental company would say if
they could see it. But, somehow it got worse.
The road would
eventually become the Avenue of the Giants, a six mile stretch through Humbold
Redwoods State Park. While a lovely
drive, it was the worst stretch of the day and led to numerous mutterings under
my breath.
But, I did find a
parking lot leading to some trails through the forest. Some of you might remember this park as the
forest moon of Endor. Somewhere in these
trees they shot the forest scenes from Return o the Jedi.
Three miles of
awful road later, I was back on the 101 and headed south. Before turning off on Hwy 1, I did pass
numerous tourist atractions. The gift
shop dedicated to all things Sasquatch held no appeal. I’ve driven through a tree before. So, I passed on the second one of the
trip. I was curious when I passed a sign
for “Confusion HIll.” I just wasn’t very
curious, and I knew I had some more miles to drive.
I hopped on the
northern terminus of Hwy 1 and was greeted to fifteen miles of tight turns yet
again. I did most of it under thirty miles per hour. Many turns were blind and far too tight to go
any faster. It was a treat when I could
actually go forty-five for short stretches.
Fortunately,
there is a point where you round a wide bend and are suddenly overlooking the
Paciific Ocean.
Another shorter stretch of less tight
twists and turns and I was driving through th town of Ft. Bragg. I only stopped for gas before moving on. Fifteen minutes later, there was my turnoff
for Main Street Mendocino.
After staying in
so many cheap motels, I decided to stay at a nicer place, the Mendocino
Hotel. Much of the original 1878
construction remains in the lobby and dining room areas. At the time it opened, Mendocino was a
thriving logging town. The Central, as
it was named then, was considered a temperance house, a place for good
Christians to stay. This in a booming town
that already sported nineteen bars.
As for the hotel itself... the ambiance was great, the food delicious and the room small but comfortable. There are the more expensive exterior rooms with balconies. I chose an interior room and was surprised to find that due to the age of the hotel, not all rooms had their own bathroom. Yes, I had to walk down three doors to the bathroom. Fortunately, fluffy white robes were provided.
I chatted with John the hotel bartender over a pint of a local amber ale. It was obvious I wasn't getting a sunset. But, I went out and took a stroll through the waterfront anyway.
As for the hotel itself... the ambiance was great, the food delicious and the room small but comfortable. There are the more expensive exterior rooms with balconies. I chose an interior room and was surprised to find that due to the age of the hotel, not all rooms had their own bathroom. Yes, I had to walk down three doors to the bathroom. Fortunately, fluffy white robes were provided.
I chatted with John the hotel bartender over a pint of a local amber ale. It was obvious I wasn't getting a sunset. But, I went out and took a stroll through the waterfront anyway.
By the way, the
name Mendocino comes from Cape Mendocino, which was named after Antonio de
Mendoza, the Viceroy of New Spain.
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