Sunday February 4, 2018
There are two routes from Alpine to Terlingua and Big Bend National Park. I chose the long way around, heading west to Marfa, then south on Hwy 67 to the border community of Presidio. From there it's east on Farm to Market Road 170. It’s the same route I took last year and it was well worth the extra few miles.
For the most part Hwy 67 really does look like this…
With the occasional stop for something different, like Elephant Rock…
Or Lincoln Rock…
From Presidio, It’s an easy and colorful drive east along Farm to Market Road 170. I checked in at the park office for my day pass into Big Bend Ranch State Park and had a nice conversation with the ranger. He suggested some interesting hikes within the park. There’s the paved Farm Road 170, and the unpaved “Main Park Road." That’s apparently graded and in excellent condition. It’s the access roads to get to the main road that can be questionable. He said were "generally okay." But, you had to watch out for rocks and washes. He couldn’t vouch for the condition of those access roads.
Eventually, I did find one. If the rental hadn’t been brand new, I probably would have risked it. There’s nothing like a rental vehicle with some scratches and dings already on it. I don’t feel quite as guilty about tossing it around. Instead, I drove on.
In my travels around the country, I've found many places like this. Deep within the parks are some truly amazing trails to incredible places. They're just not always accessible to rental vehicles. My eventual retirement really needs to involve a serious Jeep. I passed the turnoff and kept going, eventually stopping at a random gravel pullout. Curious, I grabbed my camera and went off to explore...
On my first visit to the state park, I hiked back into a place called Closed Canyon.
It’s a slot canyon that eventually ends at a nice overlook of the Rio Grande. You just have to get past a few obstacles. To my credit, I did managed to get further than the last time. But, after watching a group of six struggle up a ten foot section of sloped rock, worn smooth my water, hikers and time, it was far enough.
A few miles further I came across a pullout with multiple cars. It was the trailhead for Rancheria West. The trail is nine and a half miles round trip, but ends at a waterfall. By this time, it was already mid afternoon and a little late to commit to a hike of this length. But, I made note of it in case the government shut down again. The deadline for a budget deal was four days away.
Back on the road and heading east towards Terlingua...
I came to Terlingua a little early for checkin, so I continued on a couple of miles to Study Butte to check out a trail I had recently read about. It’s a mile and a half or so down Indian Head Road. I’ve been down plenty of dirt roads that tested a vehicle’s suspension, as well as my fillings. This was the polar opposite. I would have felt comfortable taking a small sedan down this road. It was in great shape and ended with a large enough pullout for a dozen vehicles. Another testament on this dirt road from the Nissan Rogue itself. Whenever I pulled into the convenience store in Study Butte, the vehicle would announce, “Warning, end of pavement.” Ten minutes on this road and not a peep. From the pullout it’s an easy walk along a hillside festooned with boulders.
If you look carefully, you can see petroglyphs. Mixed in, there are also etchings from settlers passing through back in the day. There's supposed to be a large rock full of them. I've seen pictures. Apparently I just didn't go back far enough.
And I still say this looks like a big chicken...
By the time I worked my way out again, it was time to check in. The guy at the office said he had been trying to get in touch with me. The water main into Terlingua had been broken and was in the process of being fixed. But for now, there was no water. To their credit, they had gallon jugs of water and were handing them out as people arrived.
There’s just something about the town of Terlingua that made me stay here again. Sure, there are a few other hotels in the area, but the El Dorato has a certain odd charm to it. I had a nice chat with the owner later in the week about it. I told him I had stayed in some places that seemed to go out of their way to be quirky. The El Dorado came to it organically. He said he’s go along with that. As for the town, I gave it some thought after a conversation with another traveler later in the week. The word that seems to best describe the town of Terlingua is honest. There’s no pretense here. Everyone knows everyone else and the locals come together for each other on a daily basis. They treat the visitors well. Sure, it’s good for business. But, I get the feeling they still would anyway.
During the trip, I had a long conversation with a local guy about my age, He had traveled around the country for work all his life. On his first trip through Terlingua, he knew there was something special about it. A few years later, he bought a small place outside town. From his porch he can only see one other home. This time of year he takes a blanket and pillow out and sleeps on the trampoline since the mosquitoes aren’t out yet. He says the clear night sky is what really sold him.
Considering it’s over seventy miles to Alpine, I asked about grocery shopping. He told me there’s a town across the border in Mexico that’s less than forty. The food is significantly cheaper and doesn’t have as many chemicals as ours does. He swears the meats and produce are even more flavorful. And if he needs anything fixed, there’s always someone in town who knows how to take care of it.
So, I asked about July. That’s when he leaves and visits the people he knows around the country. I met another guy who lives here in the winter months, then summers in South Dakota.
Once I had checked in, written up a few notes from the day and just basically spent some time out of the sun, it was time to head out for an early dinner. My favorite place in town is the Starlight Theater. The band was setting up as I was seated. Based on their soundcheck alone, I considered coming back later. They weren’t due to go on for another three hours. Make note of the statue stage left. That's Dave "Slim" Richey. He billed himself as the "Most Dangerous Guitar Player in Texas."
His first influences were in jazz guitar, but later became interested in bluegrass. In 1977, he recorded his album Jazz Grass featuring bluegrass musicians playing in more of a jazz feel. Click the link, I kinda like it. Ever since his death in 2015, The Starlight Theater has been holding an annual Slim-Fest in his memory. If I had known, I would have bought a ticket. The festival was long sold out before I arrived.
Instead, I settled in or dinner. Ashley took good care of me and the chicken with mushrooms and spinach sauce was delicious. The raspberry chipotle salad dressing was just as good as I remembered. Imagine cold dressing, but spicy. Considering they didn’t have water either, everything was served on paper plates with plastic cutlery.
While I was still sipping my first beer, Jeffro, a local guitarist, settled in right behind my table and started playing. He was eventually joined by Charlotte on viola.
I lingered for a while after dinner just to listen to them play. If they had an album, I would have bought it. I didn’t recognize a single song, but they were all just captivating. I mentioned that to him. They were all original songs written by himself or his friends. I only left to catch sunset, such as it was.
The hotel bar was having a Super Bowl party and I knew I had missed the first half of the game already. So, I worked my way back to the El Dorado. When I arrived, Justin Timberlake was doing is thing. I’ll admit I don’t know much of his music, but this little girl was certainly enjoying herself.
I asked for a pint of beer and they told me they had no pint glasses due to the ongoing lack of water. For $3, I got a plastic cup. I watched the rest of the game with perhaps twenty people of mixed loyalties. When it was over, I messaged my friends who are Eagles fans and pondered a walk back to the Starlight for the band. In the end I just called it a day. Besides, I had a long day ahead of me.
Coming Up,
Cattail Falls or Bust
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