Day 4
Monday 8/9
There were two state parks on the itinerary for the day. Both were an easy drive up the Lake Superior coastline on Hwy 61. Since it was the furthest, I hit Grand Portage SP first. It’s the last stop before the Canadian border. You can actually see the Customs facility as you turn off.
The park is situated along the Pidgeon River, which marks the national border here. So yeah, that’s Canada, eh.
An easy half mile walk along a paved path brings you to High Falls. One of the overlooks is even wheelchair accessible.
The name Grand Portage is in reference to a twenty-two mile stretch of river with waterfalls and large rocks, making it impassible by boat. The Obijwe made a trail to get around it. They called it Kitchi Onigaming which translated out to the early French explorers and trappers as "the Great Carrying Place" or the Grand Portage.
Back at the trail juncture I debated the hike to Middle Falls. If this was all I had planned, or started out earlier, I definitely would have done the three and a half mile loop.
Instead, I backtracked to the car and drove south to Judge Magnay State Park, named after Judge Clarence Magnay, former mayor of Duluth and justice on the Minnesota Supreme Court. During his career, he pushed for the creation of eleven parks and scenic waysides in norther-eastern Minnesota.
From the parking lot, it's a fairly easy hike back to the Brule River and the Devils Kettle waterfall. From the top of the waterfall, it looks like nothing too special, just your average waterfall into a canyon beyond.
As the Brule River splits in two atop the falls, half goes one way to a nice enough waterfall. On the far side, it just goes into that hole and there's no visible outflow point. The question is, where does it go? Over the year, numerous experiments have been performed to find an answer.
There have been experiments involving colored dye and even ping pong balls. None have ever come back out again. A few years ago, a study was done that indicated the water volume above and downstream were almost even. So, the water has to come back in somehow. But, where? And where did all the ping pong balls go? The same group that measured the water volume suggested the contours of the hole may trap everything, only to have it pulverized by the pounding waterfall.
In 2017, they had planned to make another attempt at dumping colored dye into the kettle. When the day came, the flow in the river was especially low, so they postponed the experiment. The park service eventually cancelled any further attempts.
It was early afternoon when I started back. In the town of Grand Marsais is where you’ll fine Voyaguers Brewing Company. Lunch was reuben eggrolls(just imagine an egg roll filled with corned beef and sauerkraut) as well as a Boundary Waters Brunette Ale. It’s brewed with black tea. The flavor is subtle and quite good.
Since I was in town anyway, I ditched the car and walked out to the lighthouse. It’s on the end of a volcanic island that makes for a natural breakwater. Over time, the coastline has shifted out to form a natural T shape geologists call a tombolo.
The first breakwater and lighthouse were added after The Stranger wrecked in a storm in 1875. Both have been upgraded over time. It makes for an easy walk out.
Sunset over Lutsen...
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