Day 9
Saturday, October 16, 2021
I arrived a bit late the night before to hit Brattleboro’s covered bridge. So, after a decent breakfast at the motel, that was my first stop. The Creamery Bridge was built here in 1879.
After leaving the bridge and heading back across town, Hwy 5 would be my route north for about half the day. The interstate may be faster, but all the cool stuff is on the state highways.
Case in point, Stone Church in Brattleboro. Any other time of year, I would have driven right by. We’ve all seen buildings draped in ivy. But, when the ivy turns multiple colors…
As with any old building, this one has a backstory. The First Baptist Church was built in 1870. Over the last thirty years, they're congregation had been aging, with few new members taking their place. The church members were having trouble raising the money to maintain the building. In 2010, they sold a stained glass window that dated back to 1896, for $85,000. $50,000 was used just to repair the roof. In 2015, they sold the building to a local businessman. The church's congregation continue to celebrate weekly mass, but now they're doing it at the First United Methodist Church.
The First Baptist Church was renamed Stone Church and turned into a music venue. It was due to open last summer. But, Covid-19 brought it's own issues with the state government's rules for places like this changing. You can read more about this here: Every old building does indeed have its own story.
Hwy 5 continued through town and I followed it north. This would eventually bring me to the town of Bellows Falls. Originally just named Great Falls, it was renamed after Col. Benjamin Bellows, a major land owner.
West of town, in an area that seemed to have the GPS going in circles, is where you'll find Hall Covered Bridge. This isn't the original, it was rebuilt in 1982 after being destroyed by an overweight truck.
In town, by the falls and the bridge closed to ALL traffic, there’s a road off into the woods. You don’t have to go very far when you come to an unofficial trail down towards the river.
Considering the overnight rain, the trail was slick and muddy. I made it about half way and stopped. Somewhere down in the rocks by the falls are petroglyphs. If the conditions were a little better, and I knew exactly where, I definitely would have kept going.
Instead, I ditched the car in the lot between the canal and the train station, and took a walk. The canal was completed in 1802 and was one of the first in the country.
Due to Bellows Falls location and the fact it already had bridges across the canals, the town became a railroad hub in the 1850’s with four lines passing through. Today, the lines still supports a daily Amtrak to Washington DC, as well as local passenger rail and freight.
Walking by the station, I saw a sign for the Southern Vermont Flannel Festival. I had never heard of it, and had no idea what to expect. But, it was today, and starting in about a half hour. The site was ten minutes north and perhaps five minutes off my route. Why not?
But first, some coffee. Walking down Canal Street…
Rockingham Roasters is right on Maine Street and super busy. I felt for Donna, since she was the only one working. She seemed a little relieved when all I wanted was black coffee.
The festival was at a place called the Rockingham Hill Farm. Based on their organization, it's obvious they do a great deal of events. Once up the driveway, they have people directing traffic to the lawn parking. It's all very efficient. The event was sponsored by the Vermont Flannel Company.
The entrance fee was $6, a dollar off if you’re wearing flannel. And yes, I was. Just inside the entrance, you couldn’t miss the stage. Debbie and the Downers were deep in their first set. More on them later.
Next to the stage was a table selling craft beer from the Mount Holly Beer Company. I selected a Pilsner and settled in to listen to the band. They were playing mostly older country songs by Pasty Cline, Loretta Lynne, Willie Nelson and Hank, Sr. I was surprised how many I recognized. Even their original music worked. The youtube recordings are of varying quality. This is one of their originals, "I Don't Understand That Bird."
There were local artists, as well as local distillery and a winery. Keep going and you hit the food vendors. I had a brief chat with the couple running a wood fired pizza kitchen. It all loads onto the back of their truck at the end of the day. They also own a gallery of glass art and the pizza supports the gallery.
Back by the food stands, these five were playing music with much more of a bluegrass flavor. I never did catch their name though.
Heading back for some food, I ran into Debbie and Ben, her guitar player. I told them I had been enjoying the music and liked all the old songs. They both agreed, but also like the acoustic covers of other songs, too. When Debbie mentioned Lady Gaga, I laughed and said, I’d definitely put something extra in the tip jar for that. She smiled, asked my name and started back towards the stage.
Nursing my second beer, Debbie looked out, mentioned me by name and what I said about playing Lady Gaga. When the band did in fact play Lady Gaga’s song "Speechless" I laughed, walked up to the stage and promptly left a big tip in the jar. I even bought their CD.
Sure, I could have picked up I-91, but the gray in the sky seemed to be easing off a bit, and I was already in great mood. Hwy 5 would be just as good, even if it was slower.
This turned out to be the right call. Passing through Windsor, I saw a sign for “covered bridge” with an arrow. I arrived at the Cornish-Windsor bridge just as the clouds parted and the sky turned a perfect shade of blue. It wouldn’t last very long, but for that one moment, the weather gods smiled upon me.
There was still some time left in the afternoon, so it was off to explore Montpelier, Vermont’s capital city. Traffic was light and I found a parking spot right in front of the capital building.
While I walked the ground, the sky was darkening and the wind picking up.
One good SLAM of thunder and the heavens opened up. Everyone scattered.
Once in the car, I took a look at the local weather radar. Sometimes, you chill in the car for ten minutes and it’s over. This was a big cold front and everything in the state to the west was covered in red and yellow. How big a cold front? Today’s high temperature was 73 degrees. Tomorrow, 57 degrees.
So, off I went to find the Hilltop Inn. The location was convenient, and the staff friendly. The motel itself just felt warn and tired. Even the wifi strength seemed to ebb and flow during the evening. One night here was fine, just uninspiring. One question though. How do you have an obvious cigarette burn on a comforter in a non-smoking motel?
Coming Up,
Mount Mansfield...or not
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