Saturday April 20,
Today was always going to be a drive day. The only question was my route. The final destination was Joplin, Missouri. But first, sunrise from the motel patio...
The motel’s restaurant would open in an hour. I could wait, or roll the dice on some place in Jasper. That’s where I found Sharon K’s Café. It’s a small place with perhaps ten tables. There were four other customers when I arrived. They were having a deep conversation on lawn tractors. I kid you not.
One of the other customers was leaving at the same time I was. He asked where I was headed. He’s lived in this area of Arkansas all his life. He told me it’s a great place to live, just not a great place to make any money.
Hwy 7 got me out of town and headed north. When I saw a turnoff for Marble Falls, I decided to take it. There is indeed a waterfall somewhere around here, but there wasn’t any indication as to where exactly.
Instead, I encountered what’s left of Dogpatch USA. This was a Lil’ Abner based theme park opened in 1968, but closed and was mostly abandoned in 1993. A more recent attempt to revive the site only got as far as the motel, which is still open for business.
The park was successful in its first few years, just not as successful as the investors has envisioned. What doomed the park was the attempt at making it a year round facility. The idea was to being in snow making machines and turn it into a ski resort. The machines made plenty of snow. The problem was the weather. It just doesn't get cold enough in this part of Arkansas. They made snow by night and it melted by day. Before long, they were losing money.
A documentary was released last year about the park. It’s only forty-three minutes and pretty interesting.
Just outside Eureka Springs, Hwy 23 and Hwy 62 intersect. Hwy 62 West would be the more direct route. I stayed on Hwy 23 a little further instead. I was headed to the town of Beaver. The last census had only 95 people living here. The only access is along Hwy 187 and the Beaver Bridge
By now you know there are certain things I just can’t pass up. One is a World’s Biggest...anything. Another is an interesting bridge. The Beaver Bridge fits that bill. Nicknamed the “Little Golden Gate Bridge,” it stretches 554 feet across White River. It’s been refurbished a few times over the years, as recently as last year. Two overweight vehicles crossed the bridge and it had to be temporarily shut down. It’s one of the last wood deck suspension bridges left. And as an added twist, it’s only one lane wide. There are plenty of warning signs. I took the bridge nice and slow. The locals barely slow down. And what happens when two cars meet face to face? I even saw that happen. Both cars stopped. There was a pause and the one that had gone the shortest distance slowly backed up.
Just off the Beaver side of the bridge, there’s a short walking trail along the river. I’d guess it was a little short of a half mile each way. But, it did feel good to be walking around.
After passing through Beaver, I picked up Hwy 62 West. Pea Ridge National Military Park made for an easy stop.
One of the heroes of the day was Captain William Black, in command of a six canon battery. When the Confederates charged his position, he stood his ground, firing his rifle again and again. His delaying tactic allowed four of the canon to be saved. He was wounded and would receive the Congressional Medal of Honor. By the way, Black was only nineteen.
Hwy 62 merged with Hwy 120, taking me through the town of Bentonville. I only mention this because that's where you'll find the Walmart Museum. This is where Sam Walton built his first store. I didn't feel the need to stop in.
Hwy 120 intersects with Hwy 20 at the Oklahoma state line. Following that north and you come to a small marker at the intersection of Arkansas, Missouri and Oklahoma.
A few miles north and I had a decision to make. I could continue north on Hwy 43(Hwy 20 in Arkansas) to Joplin, or I could go the long way around. I drove to Oklahoma, eventually picking up Route 66 in the city of Miami.
I drove my the old movie theater. The Coleman Theater first opened as a Vaudeville theater in 1929. The renovations have recently been completed, returning the theater as close to its original form as possible. You can check out a nine minute history video here. If I had realized the history of the theater at the time, I definitely would have stopped in.
Route 66 leaves Miami and takes you through the town of Commerce. That’s where you’ll find one of the route’s more famous culinary stops, the Dairy King. It’s been open here for ninety-two years. It’s currently owned and operated by Treva Duboise and her son Charles. I went in for a milkshake and got to meet them both.
Some states have really clear signs for Route 66. Oklahoma isn’t one of them. Treva warned me about an unmarked turn up ahead.
When you cross into Kansas, you get three towns and your done. The highlight of Baxter Springs is the Rainbow Bridge. It was built in 1923 on an original alignment of the route.
Seen in Galena, Kansas...
Leaving Kansas behind, Route 66 would take me across the border into Missouri and the town of Joplin. Lead and Zinc were discovered in the area shortly before the Civil War. After the war, mining camps brought more and more people into the valley. Joplin City was incorporated a few years later, named after Rev. Harris Joplin, the first person to settle in the area.
Just a few blocks south of Route 66 sits Cunningham Park. In a corner of the park you’ll find a memorial to the 158 people who lost their lives in a tornado which struck on May 22, 2011. You can see before and after photos here:
My last stop to make is in a city park, also on the south side of town. How could I pass up Grand Falls?
To get to this side of the park, you have to cross a one lane bridge. As you'd expect, pedestrians get the right of way. From there it's up to you. With no guard rails, I wouldn't want to cross this under icy conditions.
My home for the night was the Joplin Days Inn. Nothing special. But once again, no drama.
Coming Up,
A Day on the Prairie
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