DigitalRoadtrip: Utah, Day 4...North Rim

Day 4

Thursday, September 7, 2023

Ten years ago, I was able to book a few nights in the Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Ever since, I've wanted to come back and do it again. Covid restrictions have seriously limited availability. Ten years ago there were cabins holding four people and dorms with bunk beds holding twelve. It's just the cabins and camping spots these days. I crossed my fingers for a late cancellation. In the end it wouldn't have mattered anyway. A broken water pipe caused the whole facility to shut down.

So, I booked a cabin at the North Rim. Considering the relatively short season on this side of the Grand Canyon, I was fortunate to get the one night. Two nights would have been impossible. In the end, I was fine with that.

Kanab, Utah to the North Rim Lodge is a pretty easy eighty mile drive with scenery going from colorful canyons...

To grasslands and forests...

After finally arriving at the park, the obvious first stop is a short trail behind the lodge to an overlook they call Bright Angel Point.

There are numerous rim trails, but only one that goes down to the bottom of the canyon. Unlike the trails down from South Rim, this one is a bit more rugged. It's also well travelled by tourists on mules, so you have to watch your step. It can also get a bit potent at times.

The hike down the North Kaibab Trail is fourteen miles to the bottom. I chose a landmark 1.7 miles down. From there, I could decide to turn around or go on.

A long series of smelly switchbacks eventually brings you to the first big overlook, Coconino Point.

Supai Tunnel sits at 1.7 miles and is a popular turn around point. Considering I still had to go back up, I turned around here, too. It's also where I met Andrea and Sue. There were part of an REI group tour. Some of their group wanted to go on. They decided to start heading back up. Since we hiked at the same pace, we came back up together, stopping in the rare shade for water and a brief rest.

Back at Coconino Overlook, we stopped for the seemingly obligatory group selfie. That's Andrea on the left and Sue in the middle.

When it was finally time to check in, the line was already pretty long. When I finally made it to the window, I handed over my ID and the young woman at the desk looked up and said "Fayetteville? I grew up there." Small world indeed.

My home for the night was one of their cabins. Inside, there's one bed, a small desk and an equally small bathroom. There's no air conditioning, just a ceiling fan and screened windows. Fortunately, by nightfall, the breeze had cooled the inside nicely.