The only reason I stayed in Chincoteague was for the Assateague National Seashore. The promise of a nature preserve, a beach and wild horses was a little too much to pass up.
What I didn’t know was the horses on the Virginia side are in a very large fenced area. It’s on the Maryland side where they roam free. I still did about five and a half miles of trails before taking the drive into Maryland for the northern end of the island.
From Berlin, MD, Hwy 376 and Hwy 611 eventually take you back to he northern end of Assateague Island. Once you come over the bridge to the island, if you take the first right, the road will take you to the National Park Service section. Take the second right and it’s a state park with a day use fee.
No sooner had I come across that bridge when I saw my first horse, shortly followed by another. Yeah, I paid the state park fee and stuck around.
There are plenty of signs posted warning that horses do kick and bite and for the most part people respected them. A few people got a little close and were chased away by some aggressive neying.
Eventually, a herd of eight joined together and wandered into the parking lot. To the park staff’s credit, a ranger suddenly appeared to keep people away. She stuck around and answered questions. I asked where the horses go during storms. She said they all have a place in the woods where they hunker down and ride it out, and that they tend to get scarce when a storm is coming in.
Local legend suggests the horses are survivors of an off shore wreck. The parks department suggests a less dramatic origin. In the 17th century, free roaming horses were causing crop damage to local farms. To prevent this, a tax was passed on all mainland livestock that wasn't fenced in. The horses were brought here simply to avoid the tax.
With the afternoon waning, it was time to head north into Delaware and Dewey Beach, my home for the next two nights. The Gold Leaf Hotel was all but dead with their season long over. But, it made for a more quiet stay.
A few blocks north of the hotel is Dewey Brews, a craft brewery specializing in IPA’s. Their menu was limited, but the Caesar Salad with fresh shrimp hit the spot.
The hotel across the street had a large deck out back that’s open to everyone. That’s where I met Daphney. She’s a soon too be retired hospice nurse and works all over the state. Whenever she’s in this part of the state, she stops for sunset on the way home.
While it wasn’t one of those sunsets that leaves a lasting impression, the slow change of color just seemed to linger and linger. We got to talking. By the time the show was over, it was only 7:15P and a little early to call it a night. We wound up at a place called Woody's. and talked for another hour and a half. All in all, a great way to end the day.
Coming Up,
A Perfect Day...in Delaware
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