The Gold Leaf Hotel is three doors down from the beach. With a cup of coffee in hand, I was up and out well before sunrise and it felt like I had the beach to myself. I wish I could have captured what I was seeing on film.
Once over the dunes, the only illumination was a bright quarter moon over the water. Over the sand you could see a wide strip of stars. The stars disappeared seemingly at the waterline, washed out by the shining moonlight.
Off shore, the moon’s light was reflecting off the water’s surface. As each wave crested, the swell would shimmer and ripple until the inevitable crash, only to happen again and again.
Eventually, a red glow began to inch its way up the horizon, reflecting off the water at the shoreline. This is why I get up early whenever I’m on the coast.
All that was left on my agenda for the day was Cape Henlopen State Park. The Cape is named after Thijmen Hinlopen, a prominent Dutch trader from the 1620's when the Netherlands still claimed the area.
The park was an easy twenty minute drive and had plenty of things to keep me occupied. The Point is a thin peninsula sticking out into Delaware Bay. You’re welcome to drive or walk on the sand, as long as you stick to the beach. It’s a little over two miles for the loop.
Within the park, there are three tall concrete towers. They date back to World War II and were used as watchtowers. Their purpose was to protect the Delaware Bay from German ships and submarines. One tower has been converted to a radar/radio facility for boat traffic. Another is a good walk up the beach. The third is open to the public.
During the war, if the spotters in the towers saw anything, they relayed the information to a small garrison up the beach, Fort Miles. They were equipped with anti-aircraft guns as well as nine inch anti-ship guns. There are a few more, smaller emplacements further down the beach.
Being off season and a Thursday, the museum was closed.
The Gordon’s Pond trail runs three and a half miles start to finish. Of course you then have to hike back. I picked it up in the middle and did about a mile and a half before turning around. I passed quite a few people on the trail and it suddenly occurred to me, it’s been a while since I felt like the youngest person around.
Lunch was in the town of Lewes. Their slogan is, “The First Town in the First State.” This was the site of the first European colony in what would become Delaware. In the heart of downtown, sits the lightship Overfalls. The ship served as a floating lighthouse from 1938 to 1972 when it was damaged in a hurricane and retired here.
With the afternoon waning, I simply drove back to the hotel. When I wandered across the street for sunset, I was pleasantly surprised to see Daphney out on the deck again. She hadn’t expected to be back in the area again today, but her plans changed. Once again, we lingered until the last of the evening’s colors faded, then returned to Woody’s and talked some more.
Coming Up,
Like a Ghost Town
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