Sunday, June 4, 2023
Today was all about Mackinac Island. Native-Americans called the island "Mitchimackinac" and claimed the island looked like a giant turtle from a distance. The British would eventually shorten it to Mackinac.
In the 1670's, the island was used as a base by both the French and British for trade with the local tribes. Furs were in great demand back home. One of the things they offered was whiskey.
At the same time as the traders were doing their thing on Mackinac Island, Jesuit missionaries were doing theirs on the mainland. More on this when I cross the bridge and visit the mission.
Mackinac Island remained the center of trade until the church and the missionaries got wind of the whiskey trade and demanded an end to it. Instead, the traders simply packed up and moved south, setting up a new trading post in Detroit, out from under the eye of the church.
There are two ferry services that will take you on the short trip out to Mackinac Island. I chose the Mackinac Island Ferry Company. But, prices and schedules are pretty much the same as Shepler's Ferry. The trip takes just over twenty minutes and both companies have ferries leaving every half hour. Since I was up, I took the 7:30A ferry. Both services have one or two around 9A that actually go out towards the Mackinac Bridge before heading over. I just didn't want to wait another hour and a half. Both companies also have free or valet parking.
With all the wildfire smoke, it was hard to see the bridge anyway.
The first thing to know about Mackinac Island is that personal motor vehicles are banned. You can do tours on horseback, or you can walk. Since I had all day, I simply walked. It was nice and quiet when I arrived.
Down Market Street are your usual restaurants, souvenir shops and yes even a Starbucks. You'll also find numerous bicycle rental stands and a lot of fudge places.
When you come off the ferry, the Grand Hotel is off to your left. To the right is Marquette Park, named after Jesuit Missionary Jacques Marquette.
And the park was in bloom. All these flowers are about the size of your fingernail.
Looming over the park is Fort Mackinac. The first fort here was actually built by the French. When the British took control of the island in 1763, they decided the existing wood fort wasn't good enough. They built the fort we see today out of limestone. The fort wasn't open for the day, so I walked on.
There's plenty to see and do on the island, especially if you're just out walking the trails. When I heard about Arch Rock, I knew it would be my first stop of the day.
When you hear about something called the Tranquill Bluff Trail, it certainly invokes certain visuals.
Sure, there were a few bluffs, most seemed overgrown. Based on the seemingly endless spiderwebs, I don't think this trail gets much use. What it does have are bugs. I don't know what bit the back of my neck, but it was itching for days. At one point. the markers got a little vague. I used this as an excuse to walk the road instead.
On the eastern end of the island, there's a marker where the British came ashore in what would be the first land engagement of the War of 1812.
Lt. Porter Hanks was in command of the fort at the time and had received no notification that war had broken out. With a token force of sixty men, you could imagine his surprise when a larger force of British soldiers showed up on his doorstep. Knowing he was outnumbered, he agreed to surrender the fort. He and his men were set free after promising not to take up arms against Britain,
Once again in control of the island, they decided a second fort was necessary and build the smaller Fort George. Two years later, an American force landed on the island and tried unsuccessfully to retake it. The island would remain in British hands throughout the war. Afterwards, the second fort would be renamed after Major Holmes who had died in the failed attack.
A short side trail down to the eight mile ring road...
Mackinac Island became our second National Park in 1875. The Michigan Central Railroad, Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad, and the Detroit and Cleveland Steamship Navigation Companies joined forced to create the Mackinac Island Hotel Company. The Grand Hotel opened in 1887. And yes, the dress code is legit.
Just for kicks, when I booked the room on the mainland, I also checked the going rate for the night. I can't imagine paying $1,045 for a hotel room.
Lunch was on the island at the Great Turtle Brewery. The sandwich was decent, the beer excellent. Zack was tending bar and suggested a few breweries along my route.
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