Day 3
Monday August 17, 2020
Three years ago, I looped through this part of the state on the way out of Death Valley. Somewhere along the way, I came to an information kiosk that happened to mention a trail outside Big Pine to a place called Palisades Glacier.
There wasn’t nearly enough time to try doing it all that day. Even in mid-May here was snow alongside the trail. I talked to a backpacker heading down and he told me there was snow on the trail between the third and fourth lakes and it was more than ankle deep on the far end of the loop.
The side trail to the glacier is listed as strenuous due to the loose gravel, rock scrambling and altitude. As for the glacier itself, it’s less than a mile long and about a half mile wide. But still, how cool is a hike to a glacier. You can read more about what hiking to Palisades Glacier is really like on the blog California Through My Lens. Yeah, a bit much for me in a day.
To make this plausible, it would have required me to be in either much better shape or start in the wee hours of the morning. Feeling less ambitious, I started up the trail shortly before 7A.
The trail up is a steady climb, with a lot of stone steps, tree roots and big rocks to step over. The trail to the first lake, named simply Lake#1, is four and a half miles from the parking lot.
Lake#2 is just a few minutes further up the trail...
Lake#3 is just as close up the trail.
After sitting for a spell, feet dipped in the chilly water, they certainly felt a lot better, and ready for the trip back down. That’s when I heard the first rumbling of thunder. Much like it seems back home, this is apparently a daily thing this time of year. But, it certainly encouraged me to dry my feet and get moving.
I talked with a few hikers coming back from the lake loop. They said "it gets kinda steep around lakes four and five." The trail to the glacier branches off a little way up the trail from where I was. The glacier would have been four more miles each way. I decided to turn back and head down.
A side note on hiking during Covid-19. Less than half the people on the trail wore masks. I had one in my pocket with easy access if necessary. Hikers are generally good about giving way for faster people, or those traveling in the opposite direction. Instead of just giving way, they stepped off the trail to give a little more distance. It's not the usual step or two, either. People were stepping two or tree feet off trail when they could.
It felt good to be back in Big Pine. Copper Top Barbecue is right across the street from the Bristlecone Motel. An early dinner was a “Tri Tip Sandwich” and a cold Death Valley Pale Ale from a local brewery. The side of potato salad hit the spot.
Back to the room for a welcome shower and I pretty much called it a day. Well, except for sunset, once again from the motel parking lot.
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