Day 1
Tuesday September, 15, 2020
After just a couple of hours sleep, it was time to go. Weighing the options, I decided to drive into downtown and take the train back to the airport. Unlike the last couple of trips, they would be running by then.
The trip in was painless and after dropping off my bag, it was off to security. Something caused the metal detectors to beep, so I had to do the body scan. That lit up, too. So, off came the shoes and the belt. It still lit up. So, the trip started with a pat down. Joy.
The flight to Minneapolis and then on to Kalispell was less than half full and painless.
When I book rental cars, I generally book through Orbitz.com. I just find it easier to compare and contrast by vehicle type and rental agency. I had plenty of options, but chose to revisit the next day. Bad move, By then, all that was left was a minivan from Dollar. Fortunately, when I went to check in, they were able to put me in a Nissan Sentra instead. As an added bonus, it was about half the price.
Just a couple of miles north of the rental lot is the town of Columbia Falls. There aren't any actual falls in town. When the town was settled, they liked the name Columbia, and added Falls to differentiate it from Columbus, Montana. That’s where I found Super 1 Foods. I was able to stock up on supplies, and even pick up two cans of bear spray, just in case.
Just a few blocks east is where I found the Backslope Brewery. Lunch was a Ginger Pork Sandwich with slaw. Imagine a barbecue sandwich with coleslaw on top of the meat. Now imagine a distinct taste of ginger in the sauce. Enough to definitely add some zing, while not being overpowering, Delicious. Add a pint of the house Porter Ale and I was good to go. The dining rules are a bit different than they were in California. I was dining inside, but the doors and window were all open and every other table empty. I have no idea what they plan to do once the weather turns.
There were two lodging opportunities within Glacier National Park, both in the same area. McDonald Lodge was built here in 1913. The ever increasing popularity of the park necessitated building a secondary facility, the Motel Lake McDonald. That was my home for the next six nights. With two double beds, a travel companion and two people's gear would have been a little cozy. For air conditioning, open a window. Heat comes from an old electric coil system built into the wall.
Sunset over Lake McDonald, complete with smoky haze.
Day 2
Wednesday September 16, 2020
One of the most popular long hikes in the park is the High Line Trail. On my first visit, I had arrived the day after a section of the park road had closed for the season. I hiked halfway and turned back. The second time, I did “the loop” and caught the park service shuttle back to the parking lot. Thanks to Covid-19, the shuttles weren’t running. You can either hike out and back, or take your chances thumbing a ride back. The Park Service actively discourages hitchhiking.
The trail begins across the road from the Logan Pass Visitor’s Center, also closed due to Covid-19. The lot fills up quickly, so I was there just before first light. The morning colors were peeking over the mountains as I packed my knapsack for the day. By the way, it was forty-three degrees! By now you know, I consider that just about perfect.
The forty-three degrees was a perfect way to start the morning. Of course, that didn’t last once the sun came up over the mountains. But, it felt really good as I crossed the road and started my hike.
On a clear day, you’d be able to see the Granite Chalet on the far ridge. Not so much today. Smoke from wildfires to the west cast a haze throughout the day. I met a hiker during the day who said it was much better than a few days ago. They described the air on Monday as being "brown."
First glimpse of the Granite Chalet...
With 0.8 miles to go, you arrive at the trail juncture for the Grinell Glacier Overlook. I’ve heard good things about it, so up I went. It's only 0.8 miles to the overlook.
Those of you who are into hiking, think about the toughest 0.8 miles you’ve ever done. This comes close to all of them. Not only is the trail steep, there’s a lot of loose gravel and shale to contend with. It makes for a very slow climb. The goal, that bowl shaped area.
However, this wasn’t the worse half mile I hiked on this trip. The later one I was told requires two or three people to be airlifted out every year, and someone died on the trail in July. Good thing I didn’t know that at the time.
I asked a hiker coming down and he said, "yeah it’s worth it." And he told me there were three mountain goats near the top, too. I could do this. Just one more rest stop or two...
Close to the end, the three bighorn sheep made it all worthwhile…
Eventually, you do take the final turn in the trail to the overlook… That's the glacier tucked back in the shade.
Yeah, worth it…once. Somehow I doubt I’ll do this again. The view was great, but it wore me out and slowed my pace for the rest of the day.
Hikers and mountain goats sharing the day...
Fun with marmots on the hike down...
Back at the trail juncture, I decided what the heck, I could do the 0.8 miles to the Granite Chalet.
In normal years, this is a place for hikers and backpackers to crash for the night. Lodging is bare bones. You get a bunk bed, nothing more. There’s also a snack bar, but no running water. You can get an idea of the inside here:
As one hiker said, “nothing says end of season like the refrigerator packed in a net, ready to be airlifted out.”
This shot is from the chalet. The line across is the High Line Trail. The one that goes up, is the overlook trail. Yeah, it’s that steep.
Ordinarily, you'd take the four mile trail back to the road. It's mostly switchbacks and relatively easy. Instead, I did the 7.6 miles backtracking the High Line Trail. Seen on the way back...
I had been slogging out the miles, counting off the landmarks I had passed on the way out. Suddenly, I see something poking it's head out from behind a bush.
A little while later, I encountered two more of them...
And finally a sign I was close to the end...
If I do the math right, it was 16.5 miles for the day. While I left the parking lot at 7A, I arrived back at the car close to 6P. I'd do this trail again, definitely. I think I'd just skip the revisit to the glacier overlook.
With a stiff back and wobbly legs, it just felt good to be done.
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