Day 4
Tuesday August 18, 2020
After two days of protein bars and bananas for breakfast, I was definitely looking for something more substantial. With the morning sunrise, I was off to get a real breakfast.
Three doors up from the motel sits a place called the Country Kitchen. All indoor dining is closed off. Instead, there are ten tables out front, under an overhang. and three more tucked in on the edge of the parking lot. Breakfast was delicious and Marie took good care of the few customers there at opening time.
From Lone Pine, it was an easy drive up Hwy 395 north. I was headed to the town of Mammoth Lakes, named by the Mammoth Mining Company when they laid a claim to mine gold in 1878. By the end of the year, Mammoth Lakes had a population of 1,500 people. When the mine closed three years later, that number dropped to ten.
There was one stop to make along the way. On the other side of Hwy 395 you’ll find Hot Creek Hatchery Road. Two miles of pavement and three of gravel brings you to the pullout for Hot Creek. Between the magma chamber three miles below and the intense pressure, boiling water bubbles up into the stream. The stream itself is fenced off and the city is known to charge people who hop the fence. There was a time it was a place known to the locals for bathing in the hot spring. The city put an end to it after people died in the suddenly scalding water.
There were warning signs of scalding water at the first pulloff. There were also some people fishing. How did the fish live in scalding water?
Well, a half mile further downstream is where you find the actual hot springs. A short walk gets you to an overlook. A trail takes you a bit closer, just not too close. This where people used to bathe in the pools.
On the walk back up, I noticed two more thermal vents. They’re not easy to see, but there’s one on each side of the stream, just before the fence line.
Mammoth Lakes was my last stop of the day and it was still fairly early. So, after checking in at the visitor center for some maps, I went off exploring. On the map, there was a trail out to something called Mammoth Rock. The trailhead pullout had enough space for three cars. The trail was pretty short to a wide view and yes, one very large rock,
Not something you see flying overhead every day...
The trail to Emerald Lake sits at the furthest end of the town’s roads. To get there, you drive by multiple lakes and campgrounds. Nice scenery, but very slow going. The Day Use spots were all taken and there were people circling the lot. So, I left.
On the way back, a white SUV suddenly stopped in the road, doors opened and everyone got out. The SUV that was two vehicles in front of me stopped, too. Since traffic was stacking up behind the other car, he was stuck, too. Eventually, they came back and drove off.
I get that there’s something about seeing a bear in the wild. But, there were a few places to pull off. I found one.
By now, it was mid afernoon and I was thinking lunch. There are two breweries in town. Randomly, I chose Mammoth Brewing Company. Due to concerns with Covid-19, there's one way in and one way out only. Masks are required at this point.
Their twenty-four tables are spread out in their beer garden. You wait in line, clearly marked every six feet, until there’s a table ready. Once seated, you can either order on your phone, or at the bar inside. Considering the glare, I was having trouble reading the phone anyway.
Inside, there are clearly marked lines on the floor. There's hand sanitizer and a plexiglass screen in place. You pay right there, then walk out and wait.
Every table has a wooden topped barrel next to it. The wait staff puts your food down there. Easy enough and no contact.
My home for the night was the Alpenhoff Lodge. Check in was the usual with a plexiglass panel in front of the desk. When they asked for my ID, they cleaned it with a sanitizing wipe. Nice enough place, even though I was on the third floor(no elevator). Since I was staying a few nights, I didn't mind too much hauling my stuff up the stairs.
With all the lakes here. it was an easy decision to head out, find a place to hang out, swat mosquitoes and wait.
One more cold one at the hotel beer garden(a 4Sons Brewing Zombie Kill of the Week ale) and then back to the room to write up some notes from the day.
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